A soulful escape into the Himalayan wilderness
After my MBA placements wrapped up, I was craving a break — not just a weekend getaway, but a real escape into the mountains. That's when I started exploring Uttarakhand, a Himalayan gem tucked in northern India. As I read more, I discovered that the state is home to two distinct mountain ranges, each offering a unique experience:
"It was a tough choice at first — do I go where the road is well-traveled or do I wander where few venture? I chose Kumaon — the road less traveled. And it made all the difference."
And so began our spontaneous escape into the Kumaon Himalayas — a less commercial, more soulful part of Uttarakhand. A region where roads are narrow, forests are dense, and tourists are few. My travel buddy and I decided to make it a budget trip with zero luxury but maximum experience.
Our adventure started with a train ride to Kathgodam, the entry point to Kumaon. From there, we rented a scooty — because there's something about two wheels on hilly roads that brings unmatched freedom.
Kathgodam → Bhimtal → Nainital → Mukteshwar (Zostel)
Travel time: ~4 hours | Cost: Friendly on the wallet
Goal: Escape the expected
We made our first stop at Bhimtal Lake, a peaceful spot that was a welcome break after the train ride. After soaking in the calm waters and some roadside chai, we headed toward Nainital.
Bhimtal Lake
There, we indulged in a horse ride up to the Mango ViewPoint, which offered a wide, sweeping view of the valley. It felt like we were watching life from a mountaintop — literally and metaphorically.
As dusk approached, we began the journey to Zostel Mukteshwar. That's when the adventure truly began. No streetlights. No humans in sight. Just forests. And murmurs about leopard sightings.
It was pitch dark after 6 in the evening. We were terrified — but equally determined. After a few wrong turns, GPS fails and moments of panic, we finally saw the lights of Zostel Mukteshwar. The property was stunning — serene, remote, and almost entirely empty. With over 50 beds, only two other guests were staying — both corporate folks just like us. We booked an 8-sharing dorm and, just as we'd hoped, had the entire room to ourselves.
A campfire, starlit sky, and mountain silence wrapped up Day 1 perfectly.
The next morning started with a hot breakfast and a chat with Chetan, the property manager. Being MBAs, we couldn't help but dive into some classic business curiosity: How does Zostel operate? Do they own or lease this place? What's the revenue model? Which marketing campaigns work best in the off-season?
Chetan was more than happy to share insights. But what caught our attention was something else entirely.
Chetan told us about a mystical site just 1.5 hours away — the Kasar Devi Temple, perched near Almora. This wasn't just another hilltop temple. It's one of only three geomagnetic power centers in the world, the others being Machu Picchu (Peru) and Stonehenge (UK).
Thanks to a gap in the Van Allen Belt, this area experiences strong electromagnetic fields. NASA studies and ISRO scientists have shown interest in this phenomenon — it's a hotspot for cosmic energy, and many say it boosts meditation and mental clarity.
Spiritual seekers like Swami Vivekananda, German physicist Walter Yeeling Evans-Wentz, and Bob Dylan have visited and meditated here. Though neither of us were particularly spiritual, something about this place intrigued us. So we decided — why not?
We rode through winding mountain roads and finally reached Kasar Devi. The vibe was real — calm, silent, and almost magnetic in its serenity. A few monks sat in meditation. There were no loud chants, no rituals — just pure stillness.
We sat there for a while, not speaking much. Just soaking it in. We may not have become believers, but something shifted. A lightness, a clarity — hard to describe but impossible to ignore.
With the sun beginning its descent, we decided to head back to Kathgodam, hearts full and minds reset.
This trip wasn't about ticking places off a list. It was about choosing the quieter route, finding beauty in simplicity and learning that sometimes, the most unexpected paths are the ones that move you the most.
From dark forest roads and empty dorms to cosmic temples and scooty rides, Kumaon gave us more than we asked for.
And it all started with a simple decision — to take the road less traveled.
— Alston